मनाली तो Delhi

We decided as the bikes werent able to be ridden to Chandigarh :( we would fly with Michele and her # arm to Delhi. Raj & Mr Jassa organized the bikes to be picked up and we hoped to meet them in Delhi for a press conference and final goodbyes. Ritus 4 wheel drive turned up with logos and was ready for her to drive home and for the next leg of the trip (remember it broke down on the way to Leh). We were up early for the flight out. It was different from flying into Leh with barren mountains. These ones had vegetation and small settlements all over the mountainsides. Amazing to see and not unhappy we saw it from the air!
Once in Delhi the wonderful Yash picked us up at the airport and safely deposited us at the hotel Michele was taken to a specialist hospital (on Sunday) to be checked out and all was well. We spent the Monday getting things organised (insurance, flight changes etc) and Yash came and took the Ugly Aunts sightseeing and shopping. He was very patient with us and knew all the right places to go.
We had dinner with his family whilst in Delhi and they were very gracious hosts. It was lovely to meet them and his fabulous nephew.
Michele, Kerrie, Jenny S & Jenny R headed off to Agra to see the Taj whilst Jo linked up with Katie and Tarinis family.
Our last night in Delhi Yash again took us out for Jos birthday. We drank appropriately MUDSLIDES on the night! Fanatstic food again.
Then the next day we flew out.....

थे लास्ट डे ओं थे णीळ्ड्श्र! Manali

After a peaceful night we set off again over the pass to Manali. We stopped for permit checks and Jo spoke to a man from Luxemberg who said there was a lot of mud on the pass well it couldn't be worse than what we had already travelled could it? IT WAS! The trip up the mountain started with the usual: rough roads, hairpins, rocks, water, traffic convoys, trucks, cars.... Then it got worse. The mud we had thought we had tackled OK was now knee deep. If you stayed in the wheel tracks it wasn't too bad at first, providing there was no traffic... however of course there was. Bikes have no right of way (sound familiar) The larger the vehicle the harder it is to stop as there was no traction. So pulling over early was a good idea. Trouble was it was physically impossible to move out of the track. The mud was sticky and it wasn't easy to lift out your boot. A few bikes had a little sideways rest and the boys had to help a few times to move out of the way. Julene had a head to head with a truck who had given way until she had started through a patch. She stopped and couldn't move, threw her arms in the air fell backwards off the bike and became our 'MUD ANGEL' She then climbed up the bumper to right herself.
After this Jo & Julene set off alone deciding that the rocks and waterfalls down the road was the best option at least no sand & mud on those patches it had been washed away.
Michele was doing as asked... 1st gear no throttle and up over the rocks on a hairpin. The trouble was sometimes the Enfields stalled ( due to the altitude) Her bike stalled and she went to put down her foot but it didn't reach the ground ( knew she should have used more throttle!) Hit the ground and # her humerus. Knew it was broken... Into the car for her. A little later Kerrie had enough. She had to get off & get Raj & Mr Jassa to move the bike through some parts of the road.
Then Raj was back in the lead showing us how to walk/ride through the mud. A group of pack horses passed us...
Jo was on a roll and just keep swimming just keep swimming up the hill all be it on the wrong side safe hillside. Getting cross probably didn't help but it was fun yelling at the trucks.. NO I WILL NOT MOVE OVER. Sometimes we stopped leaned over and stayed until they passed.. we could touch them.
Up the top was as snowfield with tourist buses filled with people frolicking in the snow.....
Still with Michele and her # arm ( apparently the lead car doesn't go down the hill quickly in India and leave the bikes & rear car to follow) we stopped for lunch. 'Put it down to cultural differences was Katies catch cry when we didn't understand something'
We re fuelled our bodies thinking it must be better on the way down IT WASNT
Still having survived the upward climb Jo & Julene were determined.
Finally hit some tar and just when you thought it was safe more MUD TRUCKS BOGGED AND ##**!!## MUD.
Finally a road yes a real road with corners that were intact beautiful scenery could have been in Gippsland.
Finally got Michele to hospital for plaster & more pain relief.
Photos to follow

राज & मर Jassa

Here are our fabulous Royal Enfield representatives Raj & Mr Jassa and our final group photo at Manali

पंग तो तो Jipsa

Left Pang and the altitude thank goodness and headed to Jispa.Jenny felt better after a night on oxygen. Ritu asked Jo why she didnt come to the medical outpost.... couldnt move was the answer!! Once again the roads were hard work. Initial part of the journey deep mud (so we thought at the time) crap roads.Climbed up and up and yes snow again . The bikes were great but every now and then at altitude they would stall.. not so flash if you were heading around a hairpin and hit dust/snow/water or all of them! It got cold again thank god for thermals. We stopped for a photo shoot on the second pass. Michele stalled in the water and Raj had to push out the bike. Wet feet not happy but the team pulled together with spare socks boots and gloves.We travelled through the 21 loops which were fun but once again the unpredictable Indian roads tested us. You would have a stretch of Tar and be heading around a hairpin and it would turn to rocks, sand or water.... or all threeeeeeee.And then there were the trucks. Jo wasn't following Rajs lines (as sometimes they were a little dodgy) took a loop wide and yup a truck!!**##!! Ah well stopped at the cliff edge. We do hope the helmet cam has some of this stuff on it. Jo was watching the road as you do but trying to film over the edge... it made for interesting times.
Our next stop was at a bridge that a truck (!!) had broken. The metal plates fell over the edge and the supports had also bitten the dust. The towy was an army truck (they are even bigger and give way to nothing... except Kerrie) and it took a couple of hours to fix. Lots of standing around muttering and one of our drivers Tashi took to the plate with a sledgehammer Nono the other driver was also being helpful but sustained an injury. Don't know what the rest of the 30 blokes were doing. Hurry Up and wait again. A couple of the local ladies liked the look of Raj and with lots of laughs and sign language one was caught trying to pat him on the butt!
Finally got over the bridge before the traffic jam headed off. The beauty of the Enfields again.Had to cross yes another mountain pass. Got good at water crossings axel deep running off waterfalls across the roads washing whatever with them!! The Enfields again were fabulous and we were all feeling pretty cocky about the conditions. At least the weather was good. Arrived in Jispa... a guest house with yes HOT water and a loo. We dont ask for much. Dahl again ( got a little sick of this) Everyoone feeling better now we were down at a little lower altitude.

वेद्नेस्दय 22nd

Left the amazing lake and the road didn't seem so bad this time. The beauty of the Enfields again. We visited a Nomadic Schoolthat the government supports. They used to set up tents and teach the children for 3/12 then move to another camp. Now they have a school built out of town. The children live in for the term and go home for holidays and winter. They are fed clothed and seem to enjoy the place. From probably grade 1-8. The kids were great and we delivered toohbrushes & some paste that Jenny S had collected from her school and Colgate. The acting prnciple gave us a tour and said they are sent for 2 years to teach there. He was from Leh. Left a donation as they were trying to take the kids on an excursion to the Lakes! We climbed up another pass and yes it snowed but the roads were dryish. It was a long haul up as we spent more time at the school than planned.
That night we spent in Arabian Public tents, they cooked food at the front and we slept out the back. Jenny R had succumbed again to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and ended up at the first aid post with O2 sats of 45 not too flash and the reason why she was sleepy all the time. The meal was delicious though. Jo also fell pray to AMS overnight and spent the early hours vomiting. Choice of the car or riding... no choice at least you are in charge of the bike and can stop and do whatever whenever!!

Blogs

We will all be blogging soon and putting up some photos! The internet just STOPS sometimes in India (along with the power ) Katie Jenny Jenny & Jo are on the way home, in Singapore at the moment. Michele along with her broken arm (more to follow) is on a plane to Sydney ( No Kathmandu for her :( ) Julene is the only one continuing on her trip. Stay tuned!